To see part II of the Honeymoon Series, click here.
After lounging on the beaches of Montenegro, I was already itching to stretch my legs and explore. The thing about weddings is that they take you out of commission, mentally and physically, for days afterwards. Our lobotomy in Sveti Stefan was just what we needed, but by day three, I was getting a little stir crazy. Dubrovnik took care of that.
Thankfully, our AirBnb was the perfect HQ to explore the city. Gorgeous views of Dubrovnik and the old city were laid out below our stunning (and private!) balcony. Fresh pomegranates, lemons, and olives grew alongside the narrow stone pathways to our house, perfuming our commute to and from downtown. And our hosts! They chided us for not telling them we were on our honeymoon. To celebrate, they baked us fresh pastries and gave us solid recommendations on food and activities. It’s safe to say that Dubrovnik is now one of my favorite cities thanks to this kind couple.
Walking the wall was favorite activity in Dubrovnik. We went on a slightly rainy day hoping to avoid the crowds, but it was still packed. Despite the swarm of people I had a great time looking across the city, looking at the different terra cotta shingles left over from the war, and spying cats (so many cats!) walking around Old Town like they owned the place. The views of the Adriatic are breathtaking, and it’s enough to make your spirits soar as you amble over the ancient city.
Another favorite stop was a bit more clandestine. Built into the ground floor of a fancy-shmancy hotel, Cave Bar More is a beautiful speakeasy of caves on Dubrovnik’s coast. We stopped there for a drink and listened to the conversations of English and Australian tourists– all of them sucked into the allure of sipping wine in a back-lit, limestone bunker. Somehow, the wine tastes even better when you’re drinking it inside the same cave it’s been aged in.
My laziest (and most frequent) activity was just sitting on our balcony as bees hummed past. I could seriously wax poetic about that balcony for years to come; It was so relaxing having breakfast on the terrace every morning as the Dalmatian waves winked at us over coffee and eggs. We could even see people walking the wall from our little vantage point through a pair of binoculars that came with the apartment.
When it came to food in Dubrovnik, we saw a lot of the same meals pop up over and over. Cuttlefish Rissotto. Sea Bream. Sea Bass. Langostines. Mussles. To me, seafood is the best food. But if you’re not into fish, you should probably research some restaurants in advance…and not wander haplessly like we did.
While walking the wall we smelled the most delicious waft of smoke envelop us. “Where is that coming from?!” We raked our eyes over the walkways below us and spied Our Lady PiPi, a tiny cafe with an upstairs terrace completely covered in vines. Through the green we could see a big, open-air oven as it roasted fish and sent its yummy plumes directly to our faces. We came back down the wall and snagged a table up close to the creeping branches. I don’t even remember what we ordered (probably fish) but it was fantastic.
Like Our Lady PiPi, we arrived at Restaurant Levanat by pretty much stumbling into it. The area around Cave Bar More is pretty quiet, but there’s a narrow boardwalk that leads you around the rocky coast and drops you off in front of what is considered one of the best restaurants in Croatia. On our walk there, we came across a tiny gray kitten. It took everything in our power to tear ourselves away from this purring baby. Our waiters knew all about the stray cats that lived by the restaurant, though, and they assured us they were taken care of.
We ate Sea Bream (surprise!) alongside roasted vegetables. We’d been skipping dessert most of the trip, but here we indulged and finished it off with coffee and tea. Not only was the food delicious, our waiter was kind enough to call us a taxi on his own cellphone.
Overall, Dubrovnik was just what we needed. Our AirBnb (link here!) was far enough away from the hustle and bustle of Old Town to be relaxing. But if we wanted to explore, we found plenty of options for getting lost and cramming calories. If I could do it again, I’d definitely kayak near the Old Town walls and pluck a pomegranate off the trees for later.