Ah, every holiday has this moment: the moment you wish you could just head home and get comfortable and watch your Netflix queue with your favorite pillow and your cat. By the end of our treks through Sveti Stefan, Dubrovnik, and Hvar, it was safe to say that we were getting cabin fever.
The big meals of seafood and risotto and pasta were weighing us down, and all we really wanted was a bowl of pho and our flatscreen. Unfortunately, I get really cranky when I don’t exercise. Like, really cranky. Eating all this heavy restaurant food was really affecting my mood, and after a shoot in the British Virgin Islands, a wedding, and our honeymoon (all in one week!) I was ready to get back to a healthier routine.
We left Hvar and took the ferry to Split, where we immediately headed straight to Krka for its gorgeous waterfalls. I’d dreamed of the waterfalls at Plitvice’s much-larger park, but it was simply too far away to fit it in on this trip. So we headed to Krka, about an hour away from Split, and got ready to navigate in our rental car without any cell service and no GPS. Ah, did I mention how much we missed cell service?
Our way to Krka was filled with wrong turns and dead cities. At one point we stopped in a small town hoping to find some lunch, but since it was 11am, we were out of luck. Starving and (you guessed it) cranky, I got some fruit in a supermarket and hoped my mood would hold…
Krka’s waterfalls actually lie in the middle of a massive national park of the same name. After being on the coast for so long, it was refreshing to drive through deep green terrain, past idyllic lakes and travel lodges. We pulled over and got a huge meal (thank god) and took the lakeside ferry to the waterfalls. Unfortunately for us, both the ferry and park were PACKED. AG and I tried exploring the area for a little bit, but each path was so congested and such slow-going that we just headed back to the main waterfall area by the ferry dock.
Unlike Plitvice, Krka actually lets you swim near the waterfalls. We stripped to our bathing suits and squished our toes into the river mud, picking our way between big tree roots and large rocks. When we got to the water, we had to be careful to not hit any stones underneath the cascades. But once we got closer to the falls, it was much deeper and easier-going.
I think that’s when our mood started to really pick up. Swimming next to a giant, blue-green waterfall is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We swum around and sunned ourselves on the shallow rocks just below the surface, like chubby mermaids. Even though we left after only about 45 minutes, we felt good about the trip: it was definitely worth it, even if getting there was longer than our actual experience.
Once we got back to our car, we high-tailed it to Split so we could check in to our AirBnb. Instead of exploring Split like good little travelers, we opted instead to go on an epic hunt for Chinese food. Biser-Orijenta is Split’s only Chinese food restaurant, and it’s right in the middle of downtown. It took us a whopping 45 minutes to find a parking spot with much screaming and yelling that’s very unbecoming of a newly-wed couple. It’s safe to say that at that point, the honeymoon was definitely over.
Chinese food in our bellies, and a little bit of booze for our nerves, we strolled back to our parking spot in the fading summer heat. Cafes were emptying, parents were walking their kids one last time before bedtime, and AG and I were holding hands on the perfumed Dalmatian sidewalks. Our trip to the Dalmatian Coast was amazing, but we were missing home. Our life had been so crazy the past month that we were looking forward to things getting normal again.
Two flights, lots of airport booze, and a ton of wedding gifts later, we were finally home as husband and wife.
And we didn’t eat fish for a long, long, time.